Frame Mounted Frame Sliders-Through-Engine Bolts
The third mounting option found only on certain models of bikes like
the Suzuki DL1000 Vstrom, TL1000S, SV650 and Ducati models of
bikes allow for use of the long, through-the-engine mounting bolt. This
method is by far the strongest available as impact forces are allowed
to be
distributed over a much larger area. This is also the second more costly
design as these long bolts are quite expensive to manufacture.
The design must be structurally strong enough not to break off when encountering
the various types of impact forces but not so strong that these forces
would be transmitted entirely to and damage the considerably more costly
frame mounting points. In other words you want to sacrifice your
slider before your fairing and then your frame in that order. It's a
delicate balance and there is no sure way to ensure that any one design
will accomplish this desired goal.
The one long bolt vs double
threaded rod argument.
Why some manufacturers use a double threaded rod with nuts at
both ends to secure the frame sliders is not immediately obvious.
Despite the fact that these rods are much more costly to make. The
answer is really quite simple and the reasons quite compelling.
1)
With the double threaded rod/two nuts design, if you go down
on one side, you only have to remove one nut to replace that slider.
With
a
bolt
head/nut
design
if you went down on the side that has the bolt head, you would
have to remove the whole bolt and both sliders to replace the
one on the side with the bolt head.
2) With a bolt head/nut design, if you went down and bent the
end with the threads, you would not be able to remove the bolt
without first cutting slider and the bent portion of the bolt
off first. This is very hard to do as we have observed some
SV650's
that went down on track days. With the double threaded rod /
double nut, you can remove the threaded rod or frame slider
from either side.
Frame Slider Material: The
choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance
of the following 3 requirements:
Abrasion Resistance - the material should be hard enough to be able to
slow the bike down in a slide and not be totally worn down to the bolt
half way through a slide
Structural Strength - the material should be strong but not brittle and
snap off too easily on impact
Energy Absorption-the material used should have some energy absorbing
properties but not be so hard that all impact forces are transmitted
to the mounting points or fasteners (solid steel or aluminum materials
are examples of non-energy absorbing materials). Most high quality
frame sliders today are made of some kind of nylon or other for energy
absorption and with aluminum inserts for strengthening of the fastening
points. If the slider you are considering does not have internal
aluminum or metal collars they will not srong enough to withstand any
real impact. Nylon or Delrin by itself is just simply not strong enough
to
be held
down by an M10 or M12 bolt. The range of nylon types, with different
levels of abrasion resistance and "brittleness" used
is also quite varied.
Fasteners and Components: Quality
of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also
be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike.
Look for high quality anodized steel bolts. Black non-coated bolts
will rust in a week or less depending where you live. Stainless
steel washers between your steel bolts and aluminum inserts in the slider
also reduce potential corrosion problems. Socket head cap screws
offer the smallest footprint allowing for a thicker and stronger slider
dimensions and are generally much more expensive then regular hex-head
screws. Nyloc lock nuts where applicable are another added safety
feature. True, these are all minor considerations in the overall
scheme of things but they all add up to the cost of manufacturing. One
last thing to remember is to always try to use some form of thread lock
compound like Loctite Blue and to properly torque the mounting bolts
to the manufacturer's recommendations. If you're not sure check
out our torque reference guide.
CONCLUSION:
Where does that leave you the consumer? Well, we all don't want
to think about the day when we will be able to justify the purchase of
frame sliders. The reality is that as long as bikes have only two
wheels, you can expect them to fall over sooner or later. Frame
sliders are one of the surest and least expensive ways to ensure some
protection for the expensive or sometimes irreplaceable parts of your
bike. After all some protection is still better than none. Think
about broken rear brake levers, gear shifters or even worse - punctured
radiators or coolant bottles, when you're miles from home or civilization. The
rule is the same in our opinion no matter what you're spending your money
on - buy the best you can afford and don't be afraid to ask the manufacturer
why their product is better than the plethora of other brands available
out there. Any good manufacturer will be very clear about what
differentiates their products form others so that you will be able to
make the correct purchase decision.
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In 
The
choice of material used for the frame slider should be a balance
of the following 3 requirements:
Quality
of materials used, aesthetics and quality of workmanship should also
be considered when choosing the right frame slider for your bike.
